SUMMER WATCHES
by Carol Besler
What makes a watch a summer watch? A pastel dial for starters – a trend for men’s watches. A dive skill is another good feature for summer, as are chronographs, in case auto or yacht racing are on the agenda. Here is a roundup of 10 watches released this spring and summer that represent a break from the staid, vintage aesthetic that has been relentlessly served in recent years. Something to accompany you on the countdown to the final fleeting days of summer.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic
Ice blue dials are having a moment, and seem especially appropriate for summer in the sense that they can help you pull off a seersucker suit, a Panama hat or a pair of pastel boat shoes. This one is finished in an elegant guilloché pattern with a black crosshair in the center to give it just the right amount of sporty. The stainless steel case is 39mm, and it contains the Baumatic manufacture movement with a five-day power reserve. $3,950

Nomos Club Campus Full Rose
The “full rose” in this title refers to the pink hue of the dial rather than the case – the 36mm case is stainless steel. It is powered by an in-house hand wound movement with a 53-hour power reserve. The pink dial, blue minute indicators, orange small seconds hand and Arabic/Roman California-style dial (lit with Super-LumiNova) add a fun summer vibe to the otherwise stark, Bauhaus design. $1,890

Benrus Sky Chief
It’s rare to see a pilot’s watch under 40mm, since one of the characteristics of the genre is to have large indications spread across an expansive dial for legibility reasons. This 36mm version is scaled down but still readable despite retaining the tri-compax chronograph layout. (Although for modern pilot’s watch, the genre’s design has long trumped its original function). The lacquered dials come in cirrus white or stratus gray. $3,950
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Classic 36
This multicolored lacquer dial, covered with the Jubilee motif (Rolex logos), is so striking that this 36mm reference looks bigger than it is. This interpretation of the 1926 Oyster is part of Rolex’s recent joyful turn for its newer OP references: the addition of bold colors and groovy graphic patterns. The usual superb construction (100 meter water resistance), proprietary materials (Oystersteel) and state-of-the-art movement (caliber 3230 with Chronergy escapement) keep things serious. $6,750

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35mm
The new Ingenieur Automatic is shrunk down to a 35mm x 9.4mm thick case, a size that men are increasingly wearing again. The all-steel case has all the signature Ingenieur features: a bezel with five functional screws, integrated bracelet attaching via its middle links, and a grid-style dial. It contains an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. $11,200

Breitling Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute To Aston Martin DB5
This is the second limited edition to come out of the partnership between the two companies, after the Navitimer B01 Chronograph Aston Martin Aramco, released in February. The “squircle” subdials on the Top Time Aston Martin capture the look of classic car dashboard gauges. Specific DB5 features include a wooden inner ring like the car’s steering wheel and a hand-colored gradient leather strap that represents the depth and tone of fine automotive upholstery. $11,400 in steel.

Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa Chrono PAM1768
Summer adventure doesn’t get much more high octane than a top level yacht race. The Luminor Luna Rossa is the latest edition to commemorate Panerai’s sponsorship of Italy’s Luna Rossa team. The Chrono is one of two versions (there is also a GMT), and it’s a numbered limited edition of 500 pieces. The watch is all business, with a sleek, silver sun-brushed dial, all monochrome but for the red-tipped chronograph seconds hand and a red minutes totalizer hand. $11,500
Oris Divers Date Olive Green
Like many of the rigorously descriptive titles of watch models in the watch industry, this one says it all. The dial color echoes vintage military equipment. It has a unidirectional ceramic bezel, lumed hands and hour markers. These features and the 200-meter water resistance give it dive-watch credentials. The steel bracelet can be swapped out for a rubber strap, which is included in the great price of $2,800.
Bremont Supernova Chronograph Hawking
This modern take on the big bold sports look is a conversation piece for any summer dance floor. The geometric design, with more angles than a Tesla Cybertruck, is inspired by spacecraft, and plenty of lume makes the watch light up like a mother ship or some alien creature at night.It contains the BB77 bicompax chronograph movement, with a 62-hour power reserve. Case and bracelet are DLC over steel. $9,150
H. Moser & Cie Endeavor Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain
This watch wins the prize for the longest, most descriptive title in all of watchmaking. At least for this year. It’s impressive enough that it has a cylindrical flying tourbillon and a minute repeater, but what makes it somewhat summery is the “cosmic” rain suggested by the aventurine dial with intricate mother-of-pearl inlays. With hammers and gongs and tourbillon also displayed on the dial side, this is one of the busiest watches ever produced by the brand known for its minimalism. $440,000

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