A SNAPSHOT OF DEBUTS AT GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2026
by Carol Besler
Geneva Watch Days is fast becoming the most social and interactive watch show on the annual calendar, and one of the largest. There were 68 brands participating this year – compared to 65 for Watches and Wonders – which means tons of new watch introductions, along with a greater range of price points and designs. The show is big but not crowded, as it is more spread out – it takes place at a central pavilion on the Quai du Montblanc , at luxury hotels along the lakefront and at various boutiques and event venues throughout the city. Fortunately, there were shuttles (including taxi bikes) between venues. The show included seminars, workshops, panel discussions, parties and auctions – Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo raised CHF 115,000 to benefit l’Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève, Switzerland’s oldest watchmaking school. All worth the trip to Geneva. The event typically takes place over labor day weekend. Here are 10 watches introduced at last week’s event.
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt
The “gilt” in the title refers to the dial finish, made largely by hand, following a multi-step technique that involves guilloché engraving and silicon pad transferral, along with electroplating and other treatments. The result is a unique 3D effect that goes beyond simple pad printing or engraving. The case is 18k rose gold, and it comes on a black leather strap. It’s powered by the manual wound caliber DR002. Priced in Swiss francs at CHF 55,500.

Gerald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater Golden Obsidian
The Geneva collection, which takes its name from the city where the brand was founded in 1969, reflects the union of technical precision and meticulous case construction. The 40mm, cushion-shaped case is 3N yellow gold, which is suited to minute repeaters because of its acoustic properties, giving the sound warmth and purity. The golden obsidian dial reveals subtle gold highlights, and no two are alike. Priced in Swiss francs at CHF 320,000.

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator
This 25-piece limited edition is inspired by the regulator clocks once used as reference standards in watchmaking workshops and observatories. The convention is to display minutes-only on the central dial. On this watch, an elongated central hand indicates the minutes; hours are displayed on a subdial at 3 o'clock; small seconds appear at 6 o’clock; there is a 24-hour GMT display at 9 o'clock; and even a date indicator at 6 o’clock. Despite all this information, the dial is uncluttered and highly legible, and it has a remarkable nine-day power reserve. It is finished to Poinçon de Genève standards.

Bremont Terra Nova Jump Hour
Jump Hours, also known as the à guichet display have been trending over the past year, with recent launches from several top brands, from Louis Vuitton to Cartier. This sleek entry from Bremont draws inspiration from military pocket watches and trench watches of the early 20th century. There are five references, with either 35mm or 40.5mm cases, in frosted, burgundy or frosted pink dials – so, men’s and ladies’ editions. The hour window appears conventionally at 12 o’clock on the 35mm models, and at 9 o’clock on the 40.5mm reference, with retrograde minutes scale and a central seconds hand.

Byrne All Number 10
This football (soccer)-themed watch is inspired by a song by French rapper Booba called ‘N°10’, which refers to one of football’s most iconic numbers, traditionally associated with the playmaker: the player who creates, inspires and can change the course of a game. The PVD, rhodium-plated dial is meant to evoke the turf, including the centre circle, and at the four cardinal points, the brings into play the symbols imagined for this creation: a football, a trophy, a gilded world map, the Byrne triangle and numbers inspired by the shirts of great players. With each rotation, a new composition emerges. The titanium case roughly traces the outline of the stands.

Corum Admiral All-Ceramic
Corum’s flagship nautical-themed watch, first launched in 1960, gets a ceramic makeover this year. There are three versions: blue/anthracite ceramic with titanium elements; ceramic and 5N gold elements; and anthracite ceramic with an openworked dial. The skeletonized version opens up the in-house movement, caliber CO231, developed with Concepto, the movement manufacture owned by Corum. The signature pennant motifs serve as indexes, and the integrated bracelet is new.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk
The unusually artistic dial of this classic Ferrier is meant to portray the last bit of daylight before dusk, with taupe, brown and golden hues in a gradient finish. It’s a sunset on a dial. The movement, manual-winding LF126.02, combines an annual calendar with a moon phase. The moon disk is made of obsidian, a deep black stone that reveals subtle green, brown and golden reflections. It is engraved to recreate the shapes of the moons and stars, then hand-painted and enhanced with white Super-LumiNova. The night sky is crowned by a moon bridge made of anise-yellow plique-à-jour enamel

Gallet Flying Officer
Now owned by Breitling’s House of Brands, Gallet was relaunched this year, with several vintage inspired pieces. Gallet was founded in 1826 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where it primarily created timing instruments geared toward aviation, racing, sailing and exploration. The Flying Officer chronograph is powered by Breitling’s in-house caliber 809, and has a wrm, vintage-inspired patina.

Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch
One of Hublot’s great strengths is its mastery of creating new materials for watch cases. It pioneered the use fo colored ceramics and sapphire crystal cases. Now it debuts a special textured rubber compound on the case, bezel, dial and strap that has a tactile finish. Hublot says it’s meant to be touched, hence the title of the new watch. Available in two dramatic colors: all black or all red, it is a chronograph, driven by the Unico caliber.

Kerbedanz Maxpor GR8 Monopusher Chronograph
Two years after the 46mm version of this monopusher chronograh debuted, Kerbedanz is now introducing a scaled-down 41mm model. The dramatic three-armed bridge, visible on the dial side, is decorated with anglage and sandblasted surfaces, and is surrounded by a guilloché dial. Also visible on the dial, along with the two chronograph registers, is the screw-regulated balance wheel of the escapement. The case is titanium.

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