Origins
The history of Panerai is well-known in watch circles. Many reviewers and enthusiasts have explored its heritage and Italian Naval origins.
I don’t want to cover too much old ground, which the watch media have largely already covered.
Founded in 1860 as a brand in Florence, they still have a flagship store where customers can have “Firenze” engraved on case backs, having made the journey to the founding city to make their purchase.
I want to explore the polarizing opinions surrounding the brand in the watch world.
Design
Its large, unapologetic design language across most of the range perhaps lends itself more to larger wrists, but not exclusively. This has turned away a large portion of the watch market. Compared to a Calatrava, most Panerai models are a very different beast.
Panerai’s conscious move to smaller case sizes has allowed many people who previously moved away from the brand to reconsider. With precious metal options, the Radiomir, for example, offers a more simplified, refined look that the Submersible or Luminor certainly do not provide.
Subculture
Another polarizing reason the brand may not get the recognition it deserves is the origin of its 1990s popularity. Action-hero affiliations with Sly Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger led to Panerai’s surge in enthusiasm. This was the era that spawned the large-watch trend.
When the larger-watch trend began to fade among enthusiasts, Panerai in some ways suffered as a victim of its initial success.
Then there was a movement scandal that did not help the brand’s credibility. Advertising in-house movements while allegedly outsourcing them.
The power of Panerai remains. It is certainly a niche brand and not everyone’s cup of tea. Yet it remains among collectors, enthusiasts, and watch media as a brand that divides opinions.
I am a Panerai owner. It wears as it should, big and bold, yet for me also refined, even dressy on the right leather strap. This is my personal take.
The one thing I notice at watch meets is that when I wear one it fascinates and draws attention, both positive and negative, from those I speak to. Any negativity is usually delivered politely, often with the line “It’s not for me.”
This comes back to the power of the brand. Loved, revered, and appreciated in some circles while detested or politely dismissed in others. It has never been the most popular brand out there.
The power of Panerai lies in all of these things.
