Discover Francéclat, the leading French organization dedicated to supporting and promoting the development of the watchmaking, jewelry, and tableware sectors in France. Through a combination of market studies, promotional programs, support for innovation, and export initiatives, Francéclat plays an active role in helping businesses from these emblematic industries thrive—industries that represent the very best of French savoir-faire and creativity.
As part of our editorial series highlighting key players in the industry, we had the privilege of conducting a written interview with Hervé Buffet, General Delegate of Francéclat. In this insightful exchange, Mr. Buffet shares his vision of Francéclat's role within the HBJOAT ecosystem, the significant challenges currently facing French brands, and the concrete actions being implemented to support their global growth.
A must-read to better understand today’s industry dynamics and the strategic tools helping French excellence shine on the international stage.
- Can you tell us about your professional background before joining Francéclat and how those experiences prepared you for your current role?
I had the good fortune to join Francéclat early in my career and take on various roles, from managing our capital development subsidiary, which invests in sector companies, to integrating new segments—such as jewelry and tableware—and expanding our intervention themes. These experiences enabled me to meet numerous entrepreneurs and companies, gaining a privileged perspective on the transformations affecting these creative industries.
Francéclat is responsible for developing France's watchmaking, jewelry, and tableware industries. Its mission is to ensure their long-term growth and visibility, both in France and globally.
We undertake initiatives across multiple areas, from creation to international development, encompassing R&D, communication, CSR, and support for emerging businesses. These actions are funded through a French tax on sales from manufacturers, artisans, and distributors in the watch, jewelry, and tableware sectors.
- Since your arrival at Francéclat, what significant changes have you observed in the French watch and jewelry industry?
These industries are evolving within a highly competitive and globalized market. Some key developments include the rise of a Swiss-Japanese duopoly in watch movements, the emergence of powerful multi-brand groups (Discover our directory), the integration of distribution and subcontracting within these groups, the impact of digitalization and smartwatches, and significant market openings, such as China. There is also the introduction of new materials, such as ceramic, carbon, and titanium.
The French watch industry comprises watch manufacturers, component suppliers—mainly serving Swiss clients—and companies specializing in time measurement for B2B applications, such as airports, rail networks, multimedia, or data timestamping.
France’s watchmaking tradition spans centuries, mainly clustered near the Swiss border. Notable recent trends include the development of in-house mechanical movements, a move upmarket, and the emergence of new French brands over the past 15 years, fueled by crowdfunding, social media, and a passionate community. Brands like Beaubleu, March LA.B, Briston, and Baltic represent this new wave, while established names like Lip, Yema, Pierre Lannier, Herbelin, and Pequignet continue to innovate. Let’s not forget connected watches, such as those from Withings, which focus on health applications.
Baltic
Beaubleu
Briston
Herbelin
Lip
March Lab
Pequignet
Pierre Lannier
Yema
In the jewelry market, strong growth has been observed, particularly in branded segments, driven by the dynamism of Place Vendôme houses. Since 2016, French jewelry production has tripled, with many new manufacturing facilities. There’s also a diverse creative landscape with emerging brands—over 15 of which will be present at the 2025 Couture Show in Las Vegas, including dinh van, Akillis, Rouvenat, Persée Paris, Salomé Rico, Alix Dumas, and Viltier.
These globalized industries are exposed to political and economic tensions, which increasingly fragment international trade.
- What major initiatives has Francéclat implemented to support the export of French brands?
Francéclat’s actions abroad are built around three keywords: Illuminate, Connect, Develop:
Illuminate: We provide market studies on international distribution and regularly organize workshops focused on export strategies. This year, we’re focusing on the Canadian market, notably in light of the free trade agreement between the EU and Canada.
Connect: We organize French pavilions at international trade shows, such as Inhorgenta in Germany and the Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair for watch brands, or VicenzaOro and Jewellery Arabia in Bahrain for jewelry brands.
Develop: We boost the visibility of our sectors abroad through relationships with specialized press and professionals (distributors, agents, retailers) across Europe, North America, Japan, China, and South Korea.
- In your view, what are the biggest challenges French brands face when expanding into North America?
North America is a vast and competitive market. French brands must thoroughly understand the market landscape, distribution channels, and competitors. Finding reliable partners, mastering logistics and after-sales service, adapting to local customs, and managing currency fluctuations and customs duties are all critical.
It’s important not to focus only on major cities or French-speaking areas of Canada. Many opportunities lie in lesser-known regions where competition is lower.
- What strengths do French watch and jewelry brands possess, and how can they leverage them to appeal to international audiences?
Their greatest assets are distinctive design, the "French Touch," originality, and high-quality craftsmanship. These are elements that international consumers value and seek out.
- What advice would you give to French brands looking to enter new markets outside Europe?
International expansion requires a clear vision and long-term strategy, backed by adequate resources. It’s vital to study the target market, find the right local partners, and adapt the offer without losing brand identity. Digital tools are key to building awareness and driving sales. Consistent marketing and commercial investment are also essential.
- How do you see consumer tastes and trends evolving in the watch sector?
Trends in watches follow their own cycles. We see a continued push toward high-end pieces with remarkable technical innovation and materials. At the same time, many new brands are emerging with strong identities, and connected watches are growing rapidly. Quartz is losing ground, while variety and choice have never been greater.
- Does Francéclat have any specific projects to help brands enter new markets?
Yes, we offer a comprehensive, evolving support toolkit. Based on priority markets identified with industry stakeholders, we deploy targeted actions: a stronger presence at key trade shows, detailed market research, collective communication campaigns, and new digital tools to increase brand visibility and access new business opportunities.
- What advice would you give a new micro-brand aiming to grow its presence in the market?
Launching a micro-brand today requires a clear identity, structured planning, and solid financial resources. It’s essential to tell a compelling story, build an engaged community, and control distribution, especially online. Product quality and positioning must be consistent and unique. Seeking guidance from experts and support from organizations like Francéclat can make a significant difference.
We recently launched "Emergence," a support program helping new brands from all three sectors structure their growth and accelerate development.
🔗 Connect with Hervé Buffet on LinkedIn
🌐 Discover Francéclat: franceclat.fr
🇫🇷 Explore French Watch & Jewelry Brands in Our brand directory.
