At the latest Time and Shine Expo, I had the opportunity to meet with Jim Norris from Norrisource Inc., the Canadian distributor of three fascinating watch brands: U-Boat, Solar Aqua, and Exaequo. The conversation was an exciting dive into the stories behind these brands, their unique collections, and what makes them stand out in the competitive world of horology.
Solar Aqua: Reviving Canadian Watch Heritage
Solar Aqua’s history dates back to the early 20th century, when the Canadian department store Eaton's sought to create its own house brand. In an ambitious move, Eaton's approached Rolex to manufacture watches under the Solar Aqua name. Today, collectors still find vintage Solar Aqua watches with case backs stamped with Rolex Watch Company, Oyster Watch Company, or Tudor Watch Company—a testament to its prestigious origins.
Now revived, Solar Aqua pays homage to its Canadian roots with designs inspired by Canada’s rugged landscapes. One standout piece is the Solar Aqua Dive collection, capable of withstanding depths of up to 7,000 feet. Although most recreational divers won’t reach such depths, the watch’s robust engineering ensures reliability under extreme conditions. Currently, these watches are Swiss-made, but their connection to Canada remains strong, reflected in design inspirations like the depths of Baffin Bay.
Solar Aqua Prima Deep Bay Bronze SA0030.0004
Available in both steel and bronze cases, the latter offers a unique patina over time, embodying a rugged, vintage aesthetic. This evolving character makes each bronze Solar Aqua piece truly one-of-a-kind.
U-Boat: Italian Design with Bold Innovation
Moving on to U-Boat, the Italian brand founded by Italo Fontana continues to push the boundaries of design while staying true to its roots. U-Boat watches are instantly recognizable, especially due to their signature left-sided crown, originally designed for military divers to improve comfort and usability.
One of the most exciting innovations discussed was the Darkmoon Collection, featuring oil-filled quartz watches. This oil filling creates a mesmerizing dial effect, giving the watch a deep, liquid-like appearance. The visible bubble inside the dial is intentional—it allows for the expansion and contraction of the oil with temperature changes, preventing pressure buildup. The Darkmoon perfectly blends Italian elegance with technical ingenuity.
U-BOAT DARKMOON 44MM RED GLASS SS/RUBBER CODE 8465/B
The conversation also touched on U-Boat’s limited production philosophy. Rather than mass-producing, U-Boat focuses on limited-run models, which appeal to collectors seeking exclusivity. For example, the Chimera Collection has been relaunched with a production run of just 200 pieces, each individually numbered. Jim even showcased a rare bronze Chimera chronograph, the last available piece in Canada, making it a highly coveted collector’s item.
Exaequo: Art Meets Horology
The third brand, Exaequo, merges art and watchmaking. Originally launched in the 1990s, Exaequo’s designs are inspired by Salvador Dalí’s famous painting, The Persistence of Memory, known for its surreal, melting clocks. The soft, fluid design of Exaequo watches pays homage to this iconic artwork.
However, the brand faced challenges in its early days for using Dalí’s name without permission, leading to its shutdown in 1995. Recently, the U-Boat Group resurrected Exaequo, preserving its artistic DNA while making functional improvements. Notable upgrades include a two-step dial design and a screw-back case, making battery changes easier compared to the original models.
Exaequo Melting Watch SS PVD Gold, Black Dial
Exaequo now offers five dial options in gold PVD and five in stainless steel, all housed in the brand’s original vintage-inspired packaging. Retailing at $950 CAD, these watches offer a sophisticated blend of art and design, making them a perfect gift for art enthusiasts. Personally, I couldn’t help but think how much my father, a passionate painter, would appreciate this piece.
Looking Ahead
From the extreme depths of Solar Aqua dive watches to the Italian boldness of U-Boat and the artistic elegance of Exaequo, these brands offer something for every watch enthusiast. Their stories are rich with history, innovation, and a commitment to craftsmanship that truly resonates with collectors and casual fans alike.
We are excited to dive deeper into these brands on WatchDNA and share more about their evolution and upcoming novelties. Stay tuned for more articles and insights, and feel free to share which brand captures your imagination the most!
Special thanks to Jim Norris from Norrisource Inc., the Canadian distributor, for sharing these incredible timepieces and stories. Looking forward to showcasing more about these brands and their exciting futures.
