CAROL BESLER GPHG PICKS, AND A LOOK AT THE NEW ECO CATEGORY FOR THE 2025 ACADEMY AWARDS OF WATCHMAKING

By Carol Besler

In the 25 years since the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève began choosing the best timepieces of the year, it has grown to incorporate 15 categories, plus the Aiguille D’or (Grand Prix), the overall prize. Last year, the Foundation added another category: the Eco Innovation prize. As a long time member of the Academy, which now includes over 1,000 members, I think the final nominations have become more focused, even while the academy grows, with the additional expertise sharpening the standards. I am not on the final jury, but thought it would be fun to chime in here with my picks – the nominees that, in my humble opinion, are worthy of the award in each category. I focus on reviewing all the watches in five key categories, followed simply by my pics in the rest.

First, a few words about the Eco Innovation prize. In a recent Webinar for Academy members, conducted by luxury consultant Gianfranco Ritschel, we were briefed on what to consider in choosing a recipient. He also described what is as stake for the watch industry. By way of citing sustainability’s relevance to the watch world, Ritschel reminded us of an Oxfam study from a few years ago that concluded, “The richest 10% of the world’s population is responsible for 50% of carbon emissions [from private jets, super yachts, SUVs and frequent flights].  “This is the 1%,” says Ritschel, who also points out that “These are our clients.” It carries the implication of a moral responsibility for the watch industry in his opinion. “The watch industry has an influence on this 1%, and thus an opportunity to educate them, build awareness and possibly change their behavior.”

Ritschel says the watch industry should lead by example, moving away from carbon-intensive raw materials, and using more recycled products. Chopard won the inaugural award in this category last year. It uses Lucent steel in its watches, which is 80% recycled, and sources its gold from artisanal suppliers under the banner of Fairmined Gold. Other brands have started using straps made of recycled materials, and even recycled movement components. Sourcing locally also prevents transporting goods long distances, helping to reduce the world’s carbon footprint. The winner of the Eco Innovation prize will be chosen from the 90 finalists in the following 15 categories. 

Time Only 

Each of these nominees is pared down to its essence and pure of design, as a time-only watch should be – but with some twist that makes each one special in some way. The exception may be with the movement, the dial finish/material or the overall design. In fact, all of these finalists are standouts for all of those reasons. From guilloche, to exotic materials (the mother-of-pearl on the Fiona Krüger Tasaki piece; the meteorite on the Piaget Andy Warhol)

Ladies

The fact that any of these six nominees could easily be worn by a man is proof that the watch industry has finally realized a ladies’ watch doesn’t have to be over-decorated or really tiny to qualify. It can be adorned, but subtle, like the Gerald Genta Fire Opal. It can have classic features and a great movement (as well as superb finish), like the artisanal Voutilainen 28CG or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini. Adornment? For sure: the Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock and the Louis Vuitton Tambour lay on the diamonds, but I can picture either of them on a man’s wrist on the Red Carpet. And I can see a Piaget Sixtie on a man in any configuration, anytime, anywhere. My pick: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Platin for its unique complication combined with a sea of diamonds.

Ladies’ Complication

Three tourbillons (Audemars Piguet, Jacob & Co., Gucci) are combined with a mix of other complications (a seasonal display, a disc-driven hand-set and a whacky time-suspension function) that we also don’t strictly need, but which stand as examples of why we love the micro-engineering side of mechanical watchmaking. And why shouldn’t women appreciate it as much as men do? My pick is the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. It is sized for a smaller wrist (38mm), decorated with subtle elegance, with diamonds on the lugs, crown and case side, and an ultra-thin movement.

Men’s 

This mainly blue dialled category includes a wide range of finalists, ranging from the surprising (British brand Garrick’s S3 Deadbeat seconds) to 

the unsurprising (the exquisite Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon and the blockbuster Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135) to the unsung (the innovative and groundbreaking Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.) There is also a limited-edition platinum anniversary piece (Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV); and finally, the one that I would pick to win – the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement. The newly revived brand is now helmed by co-CEO Kari Voutilainen, the Finnish-born Swiss-based watchmaker, a master of the independents, and renowned stickler for exceptional finishing, along with co-CEO Alex Rosenfield. The UJ-2 is a 75-piece limited edition.

Mechanical Exception

As the showpieces of what mechanical watchmaking possibilities, the winner of this category should demonstrate genuine technical innovation rather than presenting an existing movement in a new metal or different dial color or even a new model. The habillage should reflect the elevated standard of the movement, and the design should be appealing and readable rather than just glaringly technical. In my opinion, the Armin Strom, which combines two timekeeping mechanisms into a single watch with the new ARF22 caliber, best achieves all of this criteria. I also love the Louis Vuitton Escale au Pont-Neuf, for its artistry and creativity, but feel it would have been more of a contender in the Artistic Crafts category. 

Other favorite picks:

Men’s Complication: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetuel

Iconic: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

Tourbillon: Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11

Chronograph: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date

Sports: Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79

Artistic Crafts: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry

Petite Aiguille: Christopher Ward London C12 Loco

Challenge: Beda’a Eclipse

Mechanical Clock

Miki Eletta: BY 21Dez12ME